Pulling the Transmission
Without Pulling the Engine

- Peter Gooch
As of:  18 April  2006 

        First, I'll assume you have the car safely raised to a comfortable working height. I prefer to have the wheels on ramps or blocks, so I can manhandle the transmission without concern.

        Disconnect the oil line to the gauge on the right side rear of the block, or it will break.

        Disconnect the exhaust at the rear and intermediate points, but not at the manifold/header, and support.

        Separate the drive shaft at the differential, then undo the dust seal retainer at the spline and slide free, leaving the forward flange attached to the transmission (easier than undoing the forward bolts) and remember to line up the yokes when you reassemble.

        Remove the starter (disconnect battery first) and the clutch slave cylinder.

        Now you'll need a jack to just take the weight of the engine and transmission -- under the transmission for now.

        Undo the four bolts where the transmission mount  attaches to the transmission, then four more where the cross member attaches to the car. Lower jack till the rear of the transmission rests on the welded-in cross member.  Remove bolted cross member (which carries the mount.)

        Now set up jacks under the rear of the oil pan (with a wood block between the jack and the pan) and the midpoint of the transmission.

        Now remove the bolts which attach the engine to the transmission.

        Jiggle it to where you can turn the transmission about a quarter turn clockwise (looking at the transmission from under the car) so the starter bell housing has clearance to come back to the rear of the car.  It will come back far enough to let the transmission input shaft come clear of the clutch.  As you do this, it will be necessary to lower the engine and the front of the transmission slightly, together.  Remove support blocks from the exhaust to facilitate lowering of the engine.

        Turn the flywheel by hand (removing the spark plugs makes it easier, but not necessary) and undo the bolts holding the clutch cover, one by one and remove the assembly with the clutch plate.

        At this point, you can change the throw-out bearing easily, replace clutch assembly and reinstall in reverse order, OR, with the clutch removed, the entire transmission will come out by lowering the front until the tailpiece slides free of the welded cross member.

        I have done five of these now and will say it is close but it definitely does work. I have not done this with an OD transmission or the early, narrow tunnel cars so it may work for them too, but no guarantees.