I'll assume you have the car safely raised to a comfortable working
height. I prefer to have the wheels on ramps or blocks, so I can
manhandle the transmission without concern.
the oil line to the gauge on the right side rear of the block, or it
the exhaust at the rear and intermediate points, but not at
the manifold/header, and support.
the drive shaft at the differential, then undo the dust seal
retainer at the spline and slide free, leaving the forward flange
attached to the transmission (easier than undoing the forward bolts)
and remember to line up the yokes when you reassemble.
the starter (disconnect battery first) and the clutch slave
you'll need a jack to just take the weight of the engine and
transmission -- under the transmission for now.
the four bolts where the transmission mount attaches to the
transmission, then four more where the cross member attaches to the
car. Lower jack till the rear of the transmission rests on the
welded-in cross member. Remove bolted cross member (which carries the
set up jacks under the rear of the oil pan (with a wood block
between the jack and the pan) and the midpoint of the transmission.
remove the bolts which attach the engine to the transmission.
it to where you can turn the transmission about a quarter turn
clockwise (looking at the transmission from under the car) so the
starter bell housing has clearance to come back to the rear of the
car. It will come back far enough to let the transmission input
shaft come clear of the clutch. As you do this, it will be necessary
to lower the engine and the front of the transmission
slightly, together. Remove support blocks from the
exhaust to facilitate lowering of the engine.
the flywheel by hand (removing the spark plugs makes it easier, but
not necessary) and undo the bolts holding the clutch cover, one by
one and remove the assembly with the clutch plate.
this point, you can change the throw-out bearing easily, replace
clutch assembly and reinstall in reverse order, OR, with the clutch
removed, the entire transmission will come out by lowering the front until
the tailpiece slides free of the welded cross member.
have done five of these now and will say it is close but it
definitely does work. I have not done this with an OD transmission
or the early, narrow tunnel cars so it may work for them too,
but no guarantees.