together the stabilizer.
Astleyís SOL website has an excellent stabilizer replacement page.
In fact, his whole website is excellent and Iím in awe of his
ability to explain things so well. As you may know, this ainít my
idea. I didnít even know there was a ďstabilizerĒ until I went
to his site. My contribution is some construction hints and finding
the Texas Instruments 10 vdc fixed regulator which makes this a
breeze. Refer to his picture and description at:
notes on soldering:
ainít neurosurgery, so donít let it intimidate you. Itís not
exactly like welding but close enough. The idea is to heat the part
and apply the solder pretty much at the same time. When done right,
the solder will flow onto the part or into the stranded wire. Practice tinning (pre-soldering) some bare wire beforehand if you
want to get comfortable. You want the part to be heated as it comes
into contact with the solder.
I donít have three hands (canít speak for the rest of yaíll)
hereís how we do it: I take the roll of solder and unreel about
4Ē. Then set the roll on itís side so it stands up with the
unreeled solder sticking out. This makes a convenient stand.
the iron in one hand and the wire in the other. Position the wire
right up at the solder, then bring the iron up to the wire. Use the
iron to guide the wire into the solder. It will heat the wire just
as itís getting to the solder and presto, the solder flows into
the wire. The instant it flows, remove the wire from the heat so the
insulation doesnít start melting.
same method is used to tin the
regulator pins except this time you make the regulator
stationary and bring the solder and iron to the pin. Use some method
of hold the regulator steady. Even vise grips will work.
clamp the regulatorís metal tab into the vise grips with the pins
sticking up. Donít clamp the plastic body! Any method of making
sure the regulator doesnít move around while your trying to solder
it will work. Tin the two pins just like you did the wire.
solder should flow onto the pins.
easy way first:
per Rickís page, you can simply solder two wires to Pin 1 (input)
and Pin 3 (output) and put a screw through the hole on the mounting
tab and mount it to the body where the old stabilizer was. Use a
couple of pieces of 20ga stranded hook up wire. Donít use
solid wire. Never use solid wire where there may be any vibration,
always use stranded. Hook up wire is preferred, since itís more
pliable. I used a GMA (small) in-line fuse holder from Radio Shack
(270-1238)for my input wire. The wire is the right size and the
holder is nice and small. You can tie wrap a spare fuse to the wire.
1-amp GMA fuse should about right.
1: Cut two pieces of wire 3-4 ď long. You can make this any
length you want but youíll just end up with a lot of excess under
the dash. Too short and there will be stress on the regulator leads.
Cut back about ľ to 3/8Ē of insulation off both ends of the
wires. Tin the ends. By tinning, we mean to coat the part, or lead,
with solder before you solder them together. This makes life much
easier when time comes to solder the wire to the regulator pin.
the pins on the regulator down to about ĺĒ in length. Cut the
center pin up close to the body. You wonít be using it unless
youíre building the really cool stabilizer.
2: Take the heat shrink out of the package and test the sizes by
sliding them over the wires. Pick a diameter that slides easily over
the wire, with a little to spare. Set aside the pieces youíve
3: Here is where youíll solder the wire to the regulator pin.
Youíve already immobilized the regulator to keep it from moving.
Hold the pre-tinned end of the wire alongside the pin and heat them
both at the same time. The solder already on them will flow
together. Do the other pin. Youíre done with that.
Let things cool
to the touch.
4: Cut two pieces of the heat shrink about 1-Ĺ ď long.
down the wires and over the wire/pin solder joint. Snug is okay,
tight is not. Go to the next size up if necessary. Check for any
sharp solder edges that might poke through the heat shrink. You can
gently trim them with a razor knife if needed. At this point you can
shrink the tube onto the joint by rubbing the clean tip of the iron
rapidly back and forth over the shrink. Donít run it over the wire
insulation, it will melt it immediately. Or, if youíre brave, you
could use a Bic lighter but you need to be careful. Pass the flame
back and forth over the shrink so it doesnít stay there very long.
The idea is to heat the shrink, not barbecue it. I have an expensive
gas solder iron with a vent that shrinks it nicely. But you can get
good results without one. When the shrink shrinks, stop heating it.
Step 5: Mount the completed regulator to the body.
T'were me, Iíd
put it right back to where it came from since the wires from the
instruments are already there. Before you proceed further, crimp a
red male push-on terminal on the input (pin 1) and a female push-on
terminal on the output (pin 3). Use a sheet metal screw, stainless
preferred, with a star washer to mount the regulator through the
hole in the metal tab to the car body. Just for fun put a piece of
electric tape on the car body under the area where the pins stick
out of the body of the regulator to keep them from touching the body
and grounding out. Donít put the tape under the body of the
regulator, it, and the metal tab, must come into good physical and
electrical contact with the body.
Step 6: Test. Make sure that the two leads that come from the
instruments are not touching any part of the car body. Weíre going
to verify that we have things right before we hook anything up and
let smoke out that we canít put back. Take your voltmeter (you do
have a voltmeter, donít you? A test light wonít do), turn on the
ignition, and check to see which lead coming from the car has 12
volts. One will, and one wonít. Turn the ignition off.
that lead to the input wire (pin 1, male push-on) of the regulator.
Turn the ignition back on and read the voltage, to ground, of the
output (pin 3, female push-on). It should be right at 10 volts.
little either way does not matter. Ok? Great, hook the output wire
up to the wire going to the instruments and you daí man/woman.
yourself on the back for a job well done. Wrap each push on terminal
with good electric tape for insulation, tie wrap the wires so they
donít move, and youíre done. It took longer for me to write this
than it takes to do it.
resin core solder, not acid core.
a voltmeter if you donít have one. Theyíre not expensive and can
find problems that a test light canít. If you work on your own
car, you should have one. The voltmeter can tell you if your
alternator is working, the ohmmeter can tell you if a bulb is bad,
the uses are endless.
youíre going to do soldering, get a 35 watt iron and a cleaning
sponge. Donít use a household sponge to wipe the tip, get an
soldering iron sponge. Radio Shack has them.
confronted with wires you want to solder that are corroded, donít
panic. Many times you can make the joint work if the strands in the
wires arenít rotten. This method is used when you canít cut the
wires back far enough to get to good copper. Spread the strands out
and gently, gently, scrape them with a knife blade to remove the top
layer of corrosion. Stop when you see bright copper. Roll the
strands back into a bundle and gently, gently, scrape the bundle
until you see bright copper. Dip the scrapped wire ends into some
non-acid flux, and tin them. If they tin okay then you can solder
them together. Go to the hardware store and get a little tub of Laco
non-acid flux. It will last you forever.
recommend that you use someway of protecting the IC from accidental
physical damage. It will be in a place that will probably never get
bumped but it still makes be nervous to have an IC hanging out like
that. You could protect it by mounting it in a heat sink, Radio
Shack P/N 276-1363 - $.99. The sides of the heat sink
stick up enough to provide protection to the IC legs.
Instruments 10vdc Fixed Voltage Regulator.
from Digikey, http://www.Digikey.com
donít know if theyíll ship just one. Probably not. I order them
a dozen at the time
cost me 75 cents ea. plus shipping and handling. We have an account
with them. I can mail them to whoever wants them at my cost plus
Radio Shack P/N 278-1627 - $1.99
terminals - local hardware or I have them. We use a covered version.
the really cool stabilizer:
LED's Radio Shack P/N 276-1622 - $2.49
1K Ohm Resistors Radio Shack P/N 271-1321 - $.69 These are ľ-watters, kinda large for this purpose, but will do.
you guys who want to build the really cool stabilizer:
technique is pretty much the same as regards the wiring for the
regulator. Where the challenge comes in is making it all fit into an
old stabilizer case. Thereís enough room and it makes a better
installation. I cut off the long edges that hold down the plastic
top to the stabilizer with a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel. Then
bend the two short edges back and lift out the old guts. Remove
everything from the plastic top and throw it into the bin with the
ZS carbs. The regulator fits just right along the side of the case.
Drill a hole through the case and mount the regulator inside after
youíve wired it. I wanted to use the original attachments for the
push on terminals but they showed too much resistance so I brought
my wires out through the plastic top. I also attached a small red
LED through a hole in the top. This LED is connected to the output
and ground legs of the regulator via a 1k resistor and really thin
flexible wire and lights up when the regulator is working. The
soldering work is a little more delicate but not that hard to do.
Drill a small hole the size of the LED in the plastic top and push
it into this hole. Solder a 1K 1/8 watt resistor onto the long leg
of the LED and one thin wire onto the other end of the resistor.
This wire goes to the output of the regulator. Slide a piece of
heat shrink over the resistor and LED leg and shrink it. Solder the
other thin wire to the shorter leg of the LED, heat shrink it, and
solder to the center (ground) pin of the regulator. Mash the legs of
the LED down so they lay against the plastic top. Keep in mind that
you have to get the wires that are attached to the regulator and LED
into the case so leave just enough slack that they will fold into a
loop as you press the top back into place on the case. Bend the
short edges of the case back over to hold the plastic top down and
crimp your push-on's to the wires. The big advantage to this, even
without the LED, is that the IC is physically protected from harm
and the case can be re-installed where it was removed from. The
regulator gets itís ground from the case being attached to the car
body. I cut a new piece of plastic to fit the top of the case using
the old one as a template. The old one looked like crap and the
holes werenít where I wanted them. Any piece of stiff plastic will
do. I happened to have some pieces that were dividers from a parts
The 1/8 watt 1K ohm resistor is no longer available from Radio
Shack. Theyíre tiny, but thatís all you need. You can use the ľ
watt resistor but theyíre bigger. Check with a local electronic
parts supply house for the 1/8 watters. Theyíll have them.
can find all kinds of neat things to use the LEDs for. Any 12 vdc
project. Just put a 1K resistor in line with the positive 12vdc to
limit the current and youíve got a cool indicator light. Eddie
Petty and I are thinking of mounting some high intensity LEDs in his
brass knock offs.
you guys and girls with positive ground cars:
found a device that will do the same thing for positive ground cars
as the LM317 on Rick Astleyís website . It will give the same
results as the 10 vdc TI regulator but will have to be strapped down
with the resistor divider network like the LM317 in order to give
you 10 vdc out. Putting it into an old case would be a lot more
challenging than the 10 vdc TI regulator due to the increased parts
needed, but Iím working on an alternative, maybe using Chuckís
idea of an Altoid box. As soon as I decide on the easiest way to
build one, Iíll post it. Rickís mounting idea using the heat
sink is probably the way to go.
LM317 and itís negative output cousin the LM2991 are variable
output voltage regulators. You have to tell them what voltage you
want by using the equation:
= Vref (1 + R2/R1) + Iadj(R2) for
the positive regulator.
= Vref (1 + R2/R1) - Iadj(R2) for the negative regulator.
= 1.21 or -1.21 depending.
gives you the two values of resistor to use to get 10 vdc out.
will put out 10 vdc as long as the voltage is higher (or lower in
the negative version) than 10 vdc + 1.21 volts. The input can take
voltages up to about 25 volts or more and still put out 10 vdc.
TI regulator is a fixed regulator and doesnít care a fig about
dividers and equations. Feed it anything above 11.2 vdc, up to about
30 vdc, and it puts out 10 vdc.
below 11.2 volts and it just shuts off. Cool, huh?
let me know if you have ideas that are better than these or if
Iíve made a mistake. Iíll use someone elseís hard earned
experience in a skinny minute. We can all figure this stuff out, but
if someone else already has, then give him credit and use the
knowledge. Just because a strong man can left a heavy weight
doesnít mean heís anxious to do it all the time.