addition to the Hawk kit, I ordered and received a complete set of polyurethane suspension bushings from Doug
Jackson that are
designed to be used with the Hawk kit. Doug also upgrades some of the
hardware that comes with the Hawk kit. Definitely go through Doug for your
kit as you get those upgrades plus all the bushings, etc., needed to install it.
I also have one of Ron Hopkinson's
3/4" oversize front anti-sway bars. And, after finding all those bent
lower wishbone pivots, I ordered a new pair from Moss (# 264-270).
Once we have the cross member modified, it will go to the sand blast shop for a
thorough cleaning. While I'm at it, and because the car won't have a front bumper with tow hooks,
I'm gonna add a tow point to the front beam.
And, here's a photo of the finished front suspension beam before we start
2002: And, here's what it looks like
with the Rover SD-1 4-pot calipers installed. At this point, the
suspension is complete less the hubs and brake rotors. Those will be
installed after the hubs are modified for weight and the rotors are
Installation was pretty straightforward considering you have to match the Hawkes
and Doug Jackson parts lists to replace those items Doug upgraded. The
only thing that concerns me a bit is the king pin installation. And,
that's not a factor of the coil-over kit; I think it has to do with the MG, Ltd.
modified stub axles or the king pins
When I went to install my new king pins in my modified stub axles, I only needed
to use the brass thrust washer, no shims were needed.
So, what I did was take the king pins over to my drum sander and massage the
fulcrum pin cutout enough so that I could install thin shims (.057")
above and below the thrust washer.
To install the Rover SD-1 4-pot calipers on the MG stub axles, I used TR8 bolts
that fit the holes in the calipers as the sleeved portion of the stock MG brake
caliper bolts are smaller in diameter than the holes in the calipers. One
other problem to overcome is the threads in the Rover calipers: they're
different than the threads on the MG braided stainless/teflon brake hoses.
So, a trip to my brake parts supplier is next.
I've a friend, Mike Adams, who
lives in Canada and who's restoring a Camden-supercharged MGB for vintage
racing. His car, built and raced by Al Pease, has a 20-year racing history behind it to include
some serious Canadian circuit wins; and he's restoring it to its original racing
specifications. And under it is this:
Now, that's a well-ventilated beam. When I asked Mike about its
strength, here's what he wrote:
The weight reduction is unknown, because I didn't weigh it
I checked it over carefully and didn't find a single hole
distorted except a few
bends on the bottom from off-course excursions. The car raced
for close to
years like this so I doubt it would be a problem with
the V8 as it weighs about the same as my cast 4 cylinder.
The only notable problem was the a-arms that were also
heavily drilled out, and were bent and twisted. I can't say if
this was a result of the holes or just typical racing damage.
I bought the new ones and drilled them out to match the old
... trying to be a purist to the original race-build.
My beam is already lighter because the ends were cut off to support the
coilovers; the Hawkes kit is about the same weight or maybe a bit less
than the original suspension; but, the Rover SD-1 calipers are
heavy! So, with Mike's response, I'm going to disassemble my beam
and drill a few holes - not as many and none anywhere except on the beam
Weight reduction from that? I'll know after I do the drilling.